Sparkling Wine

2003 Handley Cellars Estate Anderson Valley Brut Rosé ($36) - Milla Handley is better known for her Pinot Noir and Gewurztraminer, but this limited-production sparkler relies on her abilities with Pinot to create a headily scented drink. A nose of flowers, pepper cookies and strawberries leads to a lean, stoic wine with lots of structure from 94 percent estate-grown Pinot.

2004 Iron Horse Green Valley Wedding Cuvee ($35) - This blend is as close as Iron Horse comes to a Blanc de Noirs, and here winemaker David Munksgard crafted it from 86 percent Green Valley Pinot Noir (Chardonnay makes up the rest). The weight of the Pinot makes it an excellent match for most foods - except wedding cake. A lean, yeasty nose of brioche, Meyer lemon and tangerine leads off, a chalky minerality defines the texture, and the tension between the red and white fruit is palpable.

1996 Iron Horse LD Green Valley Blanc de Blancs ($80) - "LD" stands for "late-disgorged," and after nine years, plus another two in the bottle, this all-Chardonnay effort has taken on a depth of the sort rarely found in American sparkling wine . Dusky, yeasty and nutty, it offers brioche, baked apple, fig, sherry and caramel notes, with a silky, voluptuous finish. Stunning.

NV Korbel California Brut Rosé ($10) - What of those nights when you want bubbly without the ceremony? Korbel mixes Pinot Noir, Sangiovese, Gamay and Chenin Blanc to devise this deft, floral effort, full of strawberry and orange blossom. The slightly high dosage provides a crowd-pleasing sweetness. So get off your high horse.

NV Roederer Estate Anderson Valley Brut Rosé ($27) - Roederer's nonvintage Brut is very good, but its Rosé is a hidden strength. Made predominantly of Pinot Noir, with about 40 percent Chardonnay, it harnesses still Pinot for color and up to 20 percent oak-aged reserve wine for depth. The result surpasses many Rosé Champagnes: subtle herbal, raspberry and cherry scents, with slight mushroom and mineral, and a grip to the finish.

2000 Roederer Estate L'Ermitage Anderson Valley Brut ($45) - Roederer's vintage-dated reserve remains, consistently, the most impressive sparkling wine in America . This latest, with 53 percent Chardonnay and 47 percent Pinot Noir, opens with a musky snap and aggressively yeasty nose. Subtle berry and forest notes are followed by explosive flavors of dough, citrus and a whole spectrum of red fruit, plus brandy and pie crust. It's all kept in harmony by sharp acidity, which makes for a mouthwatering finish.

NV Schramsberg Vineyards Mirabelle Brut ($20) - Schramsberg gets the most credit for its vintage wines, and we adored those. But the nonvintage Mirabelle cuvee was a pleasant surprise this year, a blend of vintages from 2004 to 2001. With 55 percent Chardonnay, there's ripe pear and apple, but the Pinot Noir brings out squeezed orange and clean cranberry, with spun sugar overtones. It's vibrant and just tangy enough to have an edge, thanks to those older reserve wines.